I agree, very nicely done.Roman wrote:I think that this design is much easier, than optical or potentiometer controller.
How well does it work as a controller?
I agree, very nicely done.Roman wrote:I think that this design is much easier, than optical or potentiometer controller.
radioactiveman wrote:I was able to find the Allegro UGN3503U at futurlec (link) for those of you in the U.S. that need a cheap way to purchase of one of these.
My first problem - I think I'm getting 5V on the ring of my megadrum hihat pedal - is that expected? I thought it was supposed to be supplied on the tip.
Next - I think I connected the IC incorrectly the first time I hooked it up. Could that fry the IC and make it unusable? I really should have ordered two...
Many months ago, I promised someone I would TRY to explain my hall effect sensor setup.
So here it is! But before I do so, here are important points you should keep in mind :
- Even in french I would have a hard time trying to explain the whole process, so in English, good luck understanding!
- I am only using the top cymbal of my hi-hat (too many false signals when I was using both top and bottom hats)
- By adding pieces of foam on the base of the hi-hat's rod, I managed to make it steady : it can move fluidly up and down, but it cant spin nor move from side-to-side
- My current setting works perfectly FOR ME. I am definitely not trying to prove this is the best way to work it out
- The process of "creating" that setup took a while and the result is actually made of reflections like : "OK, this is not working, let's cut it a little more" or "OK, this is not working, lets ad another piece of that.."
In other words, this is not a tutorial! There is no way I could clearly explain how each piece of material was used, cut or put into place.
This is an arty-crafty method... that works!
.......
- First thing i did, was to test the hall effect sensor with the magnet : I noticed with MCT that the magnet had to ALMOST touch the sensor if I wanted to have a good "signal range"
- I cut the three little legs of the sensor so it would fit into an extra piece of felt I added on the top of the lower cymbal's felt. That way, the sensor is smaller so it will never touch the "tilter mechanism"
- So the sensor is standing in an upright position : the "head" of the sensor is stuck into a piece of hard rubber, while its legs (and the 3 cables soldered to its legs), are passing through the felt, then into the tilter mechanism's original hole
- As you can see on the pictures, the rubber was hand-cut (LOL I know it's ugly!), but the goal here was to protect the sensor from moving and also from being crushed by the magnet as you press the pedal
- To give it a more elegant aspect I chose to tape the whole thing with some cheap beige tape that is naturally peeling off (you might not want to do that)
- I have also "sculpted" a piece of rubber for the magnet (again, to prevent it from crushing the sensor)
- Once the magnet and the top cymbal are in place on the rod, the magnet will automatically be attracted by the piece of metal under the cymbal (sorry I have no idea how that thing is called, see the pictures). Since it is attracted by that "thing", the magnet is steady and will naturally follow the movement of the hi-hat pedal.
This is it! Of course you'll have to play with your MD hh pedal settings a little bit, but personally, even with that sloppy look, I find this setup very robust (not afraid to break anything) and flexible (not physically limited by any box or mechanism that wont let me chose the distance between "open" and "closed" signal).
I have tried a potentiometer on my hi-hat's pedal and also an optical controller, but i think the hall-effect sensor is as close as I can get to a natural response.
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