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Hey guys, I've spent a solid 12 hours (not exaggerating) researching the best way to convert my acoustic cymbals, and I finally have a plan in place. I just want to run it by you guys, as I am still not that experienced with electronics.

Going into the design I had certain priorities on looks and accurate/dynamic triggering. The basic yamaha piezo/switch design is good, however I don't want to cut up a cymbal to make switches, and I wanted the visual side of the cymbal to remain basically stock (no rubber/placemats/ect showing). These cymbals will be used in videos so they have to look nice.

This led me to user "Elrules" design which didn't get much attention. See here. He based it off of the stealth triggers that "Jmanword" sells. IMO this is the nicest looking design, and in theory it should be dead accurate. Elrules uses a microswitch at the end of the bar to strigger the edge. In my design I have just removed the microswitch and am just using the aluminum bar to complete the circuit. When the edge is struck, the bar will raise to the tape, which acts as a switch. Please let me know your thoughts on this design, and any problems I may run into. Thanks!



PS Does anyone know how Jman does his third zone? I suspect a second piezo, but I was under the impression that it is near impossible to isolate 2 piezos on an acoustic cymbal. See here for pictures that show his triggers.

Hey, look at this... http://www.megadrum.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2672

this is the best DIY 3way cymble solution for me (theoretik)

When I have time I will test it!

br

Nepo

I've been tempted to try this method, it looks like it should work quite well and I'm sure Jman uses something similar in his design. The only drawback I see is when you want to choke the cymbal - it's a bit awkward to grab that metal bar, though I suppose you could always add a regular choke strip to grab. Also, if you want 360º triggering, you'd need a few of them around the cymbal.

drumkandy wrote:PS Does anyone know how Jman does his third zone? I suspect a second piezo, but I was under the impression that it is near impossible to isolate 2 piezos on an acoustic cymbal. See here for pictures that show his triggers.

That's a real mystery. I think he used to use a piezo under the bell (it is possible to isolate it from the bow by fiddling with the module settings), but now he apparently doesn't.

Nepo wrote:Hey, look at this... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2672

this is the best DIY 3way cymble solution for me (theoretik)

Thanks for the compliment, but he did say he didn't want anything covering the top of the cymbal. And yes, it's still theoretical... I just can't seem to get round to finishing it... Hopefully I'll have something to show this week.

Anyway drumkandy, be sure to post pictures when you put it together.

Nepo wrote:Hey, look at this... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2672

Wow, don't know how I missed this. That is quite brilliant.. nice ignotus! I might experiment if I can't find a stealthy way to set up the bell zone.

ignotus wrote: it's a bit awkward to grab that metal bar, though I suppose you could always add a regular choke strip to grab.

I agree, I was thinking of connecting the bar to some copper tape on the running along the edge which would be separated from the cymbal by some tape/liner.

That's a real mystery.

I'm considering taking one for the team by just ordering one from Jman to learn from! Or maybe we could all chip in $5 and have it shipped to the most qualified person (not me)

Anyways, it's going to take a couple of weeks to get all of the parts and build this contraption. I'll be sure to update with pictures on my progress!

drumkandy wrote:I agree, I was thinking of connecting the bar to some copper tape on the running along the edge which would be separated from the cymbal by some tape/liner.

You could just make one of the membrane switches from the link above running under the outer edge, using the cymbal as one side of the switch.

drumkandy wrote:I'm considering taking one for the team by just ordering one from Jman to learn from! Or maybe we could all chip in $5 and have it shipped to the most qualified person (not me)

I dunno... No one has yet explicitly revealed how any of his cymbals are made; everything has been guesswork up until now. Roland's and other brands' pads seem to have been fair game for folks to pick apart and publish how they tick, but there seems to be some kind of "gentleman's agreement" with this guy's products. My hunch is that if you were to reveal in detail how they work, an online mob from the vdrums forum would vilify and hound you off the internetz...

ignotus wrote:My hunch is that if you were to reveal in detail how they work, an online mob from the vdrums forum would vilify and hound you off the internetz...

Aye good call Best keep what I find to myself.

I've not converted my cymbals yet, but I found Pintechs UNDER them make really really good mutes that still play like cymbals. All you get it stick click and no muted cymbal gong. As far as a robust switch though... the thought has occured to me to just use a 2nd conductor under the Pintech, and make a capacitive switch using a $10 microcontroller. I'm not doing a Megadrum for now (but you guys are WAY more innovative and open to discussion than <ahem> them.) but on a MD you might could even make your capacitive switch into an aftertouch controller with variable choke.