PCB DESIGN - All In One v2.5 - 32 inputs with 74HC4851

[mrdutx]

i use high UV exposure..(if i'm not wrong)

Oh, so you must be using photoresist then? Unfortunately, I do not use photoresist myself because I find it somewhat expensive and generally not as easy to use as direct toner tranfer (using an electric iron). So I can't really suggest a solid solution.

It might be that you've underexposed the board (i.e. didn't hold it under UV light for long enough), or maybe the photoresist cover was not evenly distributed across the board.

oh..i know that expensive.but i did it for free..there was a technician that make it for me..he say for this circuit, it's better for u(me) to have the the schematic diagram and the pcb files(hv the any pcb software file) not just the image of the pcb.. so he can make it in the film in the dark room.(not printed by a printer).

for u firelord, how did u make it?

[Firelord]

for u firelord, how did u make it?

The board? Using toner transfer. This requires a laser printer, an electric iron, some glossy photo paper (I use LOMOND 120 g/m2 — excellent results) and patience. Google toner transfer in case you're interested. However, this method does require skill and accuracy and may be difficult to go by at first.

And I used Dmitri's design (two single-sided PCB's), by the way.

Honestly, my opinion is that you should go for a Synthex kit. That way you'll have fun assembling it and not end up frustrated due to difficulties in PCB making and such. But, of course, it's your call

[mrdutx]

The board? Using toner transfer. This requires a laser printer, an electric iron, some glossy photo paper (I use LOMOND 120 g/m2 — excellent results) and patience. Google toner transfer in case you're interested. However, this method does require skill and accuracy and may be difficult to go by at first.

And I used Dmitri's design (two single-sided PCB's), by the way.

Honestly, my opinion is that you should go for a Synthex kit. That way you'll have fun assembling it and not end up frustrated due to difficulties in PCB making and such. But, of course, it's your call

ow..thanks for the info..i will try it again..

[JunRin]

Hi Synthex,

I'm from Indonesia, how much all the kit including the delivery charge?

Does the Atmega comes with firmware loaded?... and ready to works when assembled?

[jman 31]

Hi Synthex,

I'm from Indonesia, how much all the kit including the delivery charge?

Does the Atmega comes with firmware loaded?... and ready to works when assembled?

Hey man, have a look HERE

[droig]

Hi!

I want to order the parts list for this project from Mouser.... but there are some parts out of stock. There are the following:

470nF (25v multilayer ceramic) ---> #810-FK24X7R1E474K
47uF (25v radial electrolytic or tantalum) ---> #647-UUX1E470MCL1
Pot 10k trimmer ---> #81-PV36W103C01B00
HE-14 1*36 (break apart as needed) ---> #649-68001-436HLF

Please, can somebody tell me a replacement for each of these parts , so I can buy the entire list?

Thanks in advance!

[jman 31]

Try these. I think they are right, but someone may want to check me.

470nF (.47uF) Cap

47uF 25v Cap

10K Pot

Header

[JunRin]

Thank you !

1.) What are the firmware, bootloader programming MCU's etc,. must be use on this All-in-one 2.5 - 32 inputs

You can use Atmega32, Atmega324 or Atmega644, with the 32 inputs firmware.

2.) How sensitive is the response's of piezos compare to the one that Dimitri designed using some BAT diodes?

It's the same.

Hi Synthex,

Where is the inputs wiring diagram?


JunRin

[Synthex]

Where is the inputs wiring diagram?

It's the same as v3.1 without the pin 2 (Hi-Hat hi-Imp.)

[Ale.A]

Hi all!
I need just a little help. I bought all the components to build MD with dmitri schematics (analogue + digital) but I also had the luck to find 74HC4851. So I now realize that it will be easier for me if I use the synthex all in one board (more compact and less holes to drill)

The v2.5 is the only choice I have, I guess, because it uses the same components more or less; am I right?

So, few questions. The capacitors:
The ceramic 100, 220, 470 nF must be multilayer or it's just better?
The rated voltage 25V. If I have 50V is it better, worth, the same? Must I look for 25V?

May I still change the pot trimmer with a cap and a pair of resistor (as said synthex) because the firmware then provide its function, right?

For other functions as programmig v2.5 goes the same of dmitri (an+dig), I won't have ant problems, I guess. It's just a more simple board (dedicated)

Thank thank you